Headlight Relay & E-Code conversion

I opted to convert the headlights from sealed beam (DOT) to composite (E-Code) lenses and along with that I wanted overwattage bulbs. I had to create new harnesses and install relays to get power from the alternator instead of through the headlight harness going through the dash I removed the old lenses and the headlight buckets, what you see is part of the old harness sticking out. The outboard lights are high/low and the inboard ones are highbeam only The new harnesses are being made. Each needs three 'sides', one for each headlight and a third for the power feed. I stripped and tied the teflon burnproof wire in the center to add the third wire, then I soldered the three wires together and added shrinkwrap over it to seal it up. Later I taped the entire harness for added protection These are the inline 30amp fuses from the relays to the headlights. They're look a little odd but are very common on european cars such as the VW. The relayblock holds a relay for each function. One for highbeams, one for lowbeams. I just started wiring them up in this picture The power is wired and this shows where the fuses go once it's all done The relayblock is wired up with input, triggers and ground. I just need to add the power output wires Another view of the relayblock minus fuses. It's almost done. Relay wiring again, with the holders in place The harness I made to feed power through the relays to the headlights are also made of burnproof tefloninsulated wire. This piece goes from the alternator to the relays through fuses The old headlight harness is barely visible right below the new taped up one It's an odd angle, but the nut is the separate groundwire. On the other side of the bolt is the groundwire from the battery and in the bottom of the screen you can see the taped new headlight harness The relayblock is fairly small and was easy to mount on the radiator support righ over the horns. The contacts are filled with di-electric grease to prevent corrosion The outboard light has three wires, ground, low & highbeam. The inboard light has only two, ground & highbeam The plugs are on the harnesses and ready to be plugged in A closeup of the plug for high/lowbeam The old harness was protected with di-electric grease and used to trigger the relays. That way I still keep the functionality of the original headlight switch and the high/lowbeam floor switch The new Cibie lenses are in and look real good. Perfect fit and nobody but the most careful observer can tell they're not stock A closeup shot of the highbeam lens as mounted in the bucket These relays are fairly small and not very noticable. They are really the only visible hint that something is different Here you see the relays as they sit next to horns and electronic ignition The lowbeams worked just fine right off the bat. Clear and bright I only had to worry about aiming them The highbeams uses all 4 lights. The lowbeams switch to high and the inboard lights come on. All I have to do is aim them correctly On two occations have I needed to use the "landing UFO" impression on some braindead motorists that thought that they could either cut me off and slam the brakes or not switch to lowbeams in oncoming traffic. They learned real fast! At an angle the highbeams are more docile. They wake up even more when the enginespeed increases a bit to feed them 14 volts