Volvo 960 parts & updates

By | November 8, 2010

Windshield squirter nozzles
1, The windshield squirter nozzles were replaced from the dual-stream ones to the C70 spray-pattern ones. I still have a bit of adjustment to do, but they are a direct replacement and cover the windshield far better. It was a simple task with needle-nose pliers to pop the old one out and push the new one in.
Part# 30655605
Tools: Needle-nose pliers

2, The oil filter cooler adapter was leaking a couple of drops a week. Enough to annoy me! Oil filter adapter gasketAs I had to replace the coolant hoses to it, I figured I’d do an oil change and get the O-rings changed out at the same time.
There’s a square-cut gasket and an o-ring, but both are called “o-ring” in the literature.
These were dirty parts since the dirt from the road mixed with the leaking oil and caked over. Also, the paint on the adapter was flaking off, so it took some cleaning to get that off the gasket surfaces.
Part# 967343 and 3547188
Tools: Flat faced pipe wrench (I didn’t have the massive socket needed for the bolt), screw driver for the hose clamps.

3, I had a headlight bulb burn out, so I ordered a set of HIR (Halogen InfraRed) bulbs.HIR bulb trimming
The technology is simple, there’s an IR coating inside the bulb that reflects IR wavelength light back onto the filament for a ~70% increase in lumens. The only thing I had to do was to trim the three-pronged base to make them 9005/9006 compatible.
9006 bulbs = HIR2 and 9005 bulbs = HIR1. The difference is that the HIR2 low-beams are 55w and the HIR1 high-beams are 65w.
My ’96 965 specifies 65w low-beam and 70w high-beam, but due to glare, I wanted the HIR2 with the little ‘painted’ tip in the low-beams. Otherwise I would have gone with the 65w bulbs in all four housings for a total of 260w when I hit the high-beams.
Tools: Box cutter/razor knife to trim the bulb base

4, The upper radiator hose sprung a small leak, so I decided to replace all of them. Coolant hoses
I also got the heater control valve since I was in there, and also the two hoses going to the oil filter adapter. Draining the radiator is easy with the little drain at the bottom, and unplugging the overflow hose from the coolant reservoir and putting 15psi of compressed air helped push out fluid a little quicker.
The rest was very straight-forward. Remove one hose, clean/inspect the clamps, then put new hose on. The new heater control valve has an arrow pointing to the direction of flow. Just check the old one to get it installed correctly.

Part# 1236178 & 1236179 (oil filter adapter hoses)
1259327 (heater control valve)
9142043 & 1397546 (upper/lower radiator hoses)
9155499 & 9161000 (heater hoses)

Tools: Razor knife to cut hose, screwdriver for hose clamps, various jugs for coolant and a piece of hose to aid draining it

5, I didn’t see any records of when the suspension was last changed out, so I ordered up rear shocks (no nivomat on my car) and the front struts, strut bearings, and bump stops.Strut replacement
Not having done this before, I found it pretty easy. The rear shocks are just a bolt at the top and bottom, and replace it, then put the bolts back in.
The front was a little tougher. Two bolts up top, loosen the 24mm nut on the strut itself, two bolts on the spindle, and one bolt for the swaybar link, then the strut came out. Then a set of GOOD (not Harbor Freight) spring compressors, then undo the large bolt on top of the strut and remove/replace strut bearing and strut. Pay attention to how the washers and the bearing go back on. The dust boots didn’t fit the new struts, so I reused the old ones, which fit well.

Part# 271911 (struts)
1387188 (strut bearing kit)
1387735 (dust boot/bump stop)
272220 (rear shocks)

Tools: 15mm, 17mm, 18mm (for strut & swaybar link), 19mm (for lugnuts), 24mm (strut top nut). Cordless impact gun was a great help here too!

6, The front was rattling a bit over bumps and there was a bit of play in the steering. I also had a slight vibration from the worn rotors, so it was time to delve into that. The noise was alleviated with two new swaybar links – the old ones had noticeable clickin/play, and were dry behind the boots. While I was in there, I put two new hubs in to replace the ones I had on there with the longer wheel studs (when I ran spacers), new rotors and brake pads. Since I had everything apart, I also cleaned up and painted the calipers.
The rotors were Centric rotors that are supposed to be great, with closer tolerances etc, and they were cheaper than OEM too. The main benefit is the powder coated hat, so hopefully it won’t look rusty and crappy in a month.
The brake pads are Akebono ceramics that are also supposed to be very good. The car seems to like them, and it feels like I can stand the car on the grille if I tried.
I found that one of the sliding pins in the caliper was sticky, so I pulled it apart and cleaned/re-lubed it. For the following alignment, I needed the rear lower control-arm bushings, so they went in too.
Rotors, pads, hubs etc.
Part#: 271905 (front hubs)
272991 (swaybar links)
Centric #120.39019 (rotors)
9140788 (inner tie-rods)
Akebono #EUR634 (front pads)
9191537 (LCA rear bushing)

Tools: deep 10mm (rotor guide pin), 17mm (swaybar link), 18mm (LCA bushings), 19mm (lug nuts), T55 (caliper bolts), 36mm (hub nut), C-clamp to compress brake piston.

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